FROM THE ASHES

When tomatoes arrived in Italy 500 years ago, they were considered dangerous and undelicious. But in Naples, in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius, they became pasta al pomodoro — a dish that not only gave rise to an entire cuisine but its most essential fruit

By Ligaya Mishan Photographs by Anthony Cotsifas Set Design by Victoria Petro-Conroy
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FROM THE ASHES ON THE COUNTER sits a bucket of tomatoes just picked from a tumble of fields halfway up a mountain in southern Italy. Concetta D’Aniello hands me an apron and we begin. I follow her lead, breaking into each tomato with my thumb, the...

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